Meet the Michelin Man

The phenomenon of restaurants becoming celebrities in their own right has seen a marked shift in the way many hotels approach dining facilities and their relationship with them. An exceptional restaurant will now create a buzz capable of travelling well beyond its domestic market.

For example, Ferrán Adriá, head chef of El Bulli and The New York Times’ Chef of the Century, is a name familiar to any self-respecting foodie, despite the small number capable of making the culinary pilgrimage to Catalonia to sample his fare.

The chief reason for his and the industry’s celebrity is simple: Michelin. The Michelin Star system, now present in 21 countries and recognised in countless more, is the last word in quality. "I like to think we have had a part to play in this shift," says Jean-Luc Naret, director of the Michelin Guides. "For a gastronomic tour, people used to visit France. Now, they are not so restricted. And, as we extend our territories, an increasing number of people will come round to our opinion."

GLOBAL PHENOMENON

Expansion has enabled the Michelin Guide’s focus to shift beyond the merely geographical, its November 2005 expansion into New York being a prime example. "If we had arrived there 20 years before, we would have been a French company writing about French food," says Naret. "At that time we did not have the expertise and knowledge of global cuisine. What our London guide proved was that now we did."

One need spend only a short time in Naret’s company to recognise his pride in heading up the organisation. He speaks passionately about its 107-year history, independence and reputation. "We are not in this to please the chef or hotelier," he says. "The stars are a major part, but they only represent 5% of what we are about. We are here to offer our readers the best selections of hotels and restaurants in all categories. Ours is the report of Mr and Mrs Smith for Mr and Mrs Smith."

A graduate of École Hôtelière de Paris, Naret managed a variety of hotels and resorts over a 20-year period and was head of operations for a group of Aga Khan hotels prior to joining Michelin in 2003. In preparing for the role, Naret spent six months with his inspectors in Europe and visited the US, analysing the potential for Michelin expansion. "As the sole party present at all meetings and discussions on strategy, I wanted to become familiar with the entire process," he says.

Exporting the Michelin Guide to the US – there is now a guide for San Francisco as well as New York – has been one of the main concerns during his stewardship, and the move’s success has demonstrated the brand’s strength. "Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin has seen reservation enquiries increase by 35% since publication," Naret says proudly. "It is the same for Jean Georges, and Ducasse doubled its number. It has also made a difference to the restaurant landscape – Ramsay has been attracted by our presence, as have others."

CHANGE IN HOTEL DINING

Gordon Ramsay at the London, housed within Manhattan’s London Hotel, became the latest component of the British super chef’s restaurant empire in October 2006, and reflected the increasing trend towards hotels importing internationally recognised brand names to run restaurant operations.

"Fifteen years ago, there were beautiful hotels with incredible dining rooms, but no star," Naret remembers. "The food wasn’t good enough and didn’t attract the clientele. When guests arrived, their first step was to contact the concierge and arrange an outside reservation. It’s very positive that investors are realising that incredible chefs the world over can fix this.

"A concept – for example, Nobu – will appoint its own people and can be instantly trusted. In some cases, the winning of a star is written into the contract. Gastronomy has become part of the deal."

INSPECTION PROCESS

Alain Ducasse was the first chef to hold three stars in three different cities, and the same names continually gaining recognition can expose Michelin to accusations of favouritism. "Inspectors aren’t looking at the name," Naret retorts. "They don’t care whether the chef is on television or how many of his cookbooks you might have on your shelf. They enter the restaurant and look solely at what is on the plate: the quality of ingredients, how they are cooked, how well the flavours are kept, presentation, personality and consistency."

The exact criteria for gaining Michelin recognition remain a closely guarded secret and critics have accused the system of snobbery and a Gallic bias. "Complete bunkum," says Naret.

"There are 40 types of cuisine in the London guide," he says. "We are giving stars to Indian, Chinese and Japanese restaurants. Go to a starred establishment in France and your table will be a tiny piece of real estate, owned for the entire evening. In New York, your table is far more likely to be turned, but that does not mean that the quality is not there. A star in London should be equivalent to a star in Paris, but that doesn’t mean that the experience should be the same."

TALENT-SPOTTING

In terms of recognising culinary accomplishment, Naret explains the books’ role succinctly. "Our job is not about setting the gastronomic trends of tomorrow," he explains. "We must reveal the talent of chefs working today. Sure, we can be very conservative − Alain Ducasse is an example − but we were also the first to recognise Adriá.

"In a small village outside London (Bray) you will find two three-starred establishments. The Waterside Inn is not far off white-gloved service while the Fat Duck is in a converted pub that provides an altogether different type of dining experience. That’s what Michelin is all about: very good food in very different environments."

Finding the next Adriá or Blumenthal is a driving force behind the 30,000km spent on the road, the 150 nights in hotels, the 250 meals and the 800 open visits that are the average inspector’s annual lot. "Being the one to first put a person on the map is of great pride to an inspector," Naret explains. "Many are betting on the future of certain chefs and there are certainly some that we are following very closely."

To stress the importance of carving out an identity, Naret recounts being invited by the European Hotel Managers Association to comment on the future of the hotel industry: "One of the things I stressed was that before the end of this decade 80% of hotels will belong to only ten or so groups. This will provide an opportunity for the remaining 20% to really demonstrate their independence.

"Food is a big part of that. The beauty of gastronomy and the hotel business is that you can choose what you want to do for your consumer. Just make sure you get it right."